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Roger Dubuis/Massena LAB/Jacob & Co./Vacheron Constantin
The inspiration for the newest watches released is varied, to say the least. The world’s best watchmakers really pushed the limits in August, unveiling timepieces that take design cues from all manner of things. Panerai once again tipped a hat to the Italian navy with two dive watches; Roger Dubuis and Jacob & Co. paid homage to luxury cars with dazzling chronographs and tourbillons; H. Moser & Cie. honored Azuki’s anime with eight, elemental references; and Breitling dropped two collections tributing the 32 team of the NFL.
The watchmaking itself was also quite diverse. Massena LAB and Vianney Halter revived a vintage time-only movement in the Old Soul; Zenith incorporated meteorite into the dial of the Chronomaster Sport; Roger Dubuis showed off multiple patented technologies in the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph; and Jacob & Co. flexed some incredible gem-setting in the Bugatti Tourbillon Baguette.
Below are the best watch releases of the month.
Massena LAB x Vianney Halter Old Soul
Massena LAB and independent watchmaker Vianney Halter gave us a blast from the past in August, unveiling a new timepiece with a retrofuturistic aesthetic and a vintage Minerva movement. Fittingly christened Old Soul, the watch features a 42 mm stainless steel case and a steampunk-inspired, three-dimensional dial. (Halter is particularly fond of this sci-fi style.) The hours, minutes, and seconds are displayed on three separate registers, which are adorned with old-fashioned railroad tracks. The signatures of Vianney Halter and Massena also occupy a pride of place on the face, etched into the sapphire at 12 and 6 o’clock. On the reverse side, the historic time-only movement (caliber 17’22) is on full display through the sapphire caseback. Limited to 47 pieces, Old Soul retails for CHF 37,000 (about $46,000).
Parmigiani Toric Petite Secondes
Parmigiani is ensuring Toric Petite Secondes stays firmly in the spotlight, unveiling two new variants just one year after the model’s debut. The dress watch was one of the buzziest releases at in 2024, with an ultra-refined aesthetic that was very much in line with the quiet luxury trend. The two 40.6 mm newcomers exude that same understated yet upscale feel, but introduce new hues to complement the original sage green and beige. The first features a platinum case, a solid white-gold dial in a salmon-esque hue called “Golden Hour,” gold accents, and an Akoya Grey alligator leather strap. The second showcases an 18-karat rose-gold case, a solid gold dial in a taupe-like color called “Dune,” rose-gold accents, and a “Sand Gold” alligator leather strap. Both are powered by the in-house Calibre PF780. The platinum reference retails for CHF 54,000 (about $67,200) and the gold model costs CHF 47,000 (roughly $58,500).
Vacheron Constantin Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin
Vacheron Constantin ventured into uncharted territory in August, dropping two new interpretations of the Overseas Perpetual Calendar Ultra-Thin. Originally introduced in 2016, this sporty model has already been released in a handful of different configurations, but VC decided there was room to expand. Both newcomers are presented in 41.5 mm cases: one is pink gold with a matching pink-gold dial, the other is white gold with a burgundy lacquer dial. The two references come with 18-karat gold bracelets and two additional rubber straps in different colors. Both are available exclusively at VC boutiques for $120,000, respectively.
Jacob & Co. Bugatti Tourbillon Baguette
Jacob & Co. and Bugatti teamed up again in August, releasing another timepiece in honor of the Molsheim marque’s Tourbillon hypercar. The new Bugatti Tourbillon Baguette builds upon the original model that debuted in June 2024, but has been upgraded with an incredible amount of bling. As you may have gathered from the name, the iced-out wrist candy showcases 17 carats of baguette-cut diamonds. The 52 mm white-gold case is invisibly set with some 328 stones, while the “taillights” are adorned with 18 baguette-cut rubies. If that’s not enough, the mini sapphire crystal V-16 moves like a real engine. Only 18 pieces will be produced, with price available upon request.
Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite
Zenith jumped on the meteorite-dial bandwagon this month, unveiling a new version of the Chronomaster Sport with the striking asteroid-derived material covering the face. The rather simply named Zenith Chronomaster Sport Meteorite was actually already released as a Japanese market exclusive, but is now available to the masses for CHF 16,900 (about $21,000). The dial is housed in a 41 mm stainless steel case and adorned with three Daytona-esque subdials and an angled date display. Contrasting those steely hues is a black ceramic bezel. Zenith may have been a little late to the meteorite party, but better late than never.
Roger Dubuis Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph
The newest Roger Dubuis timepiece lies at the intersection of high horology and motorsport. Fittingly released in the middle of Monterey Car Week, the Excalibur Spider Flyback Chronograph showcases the same level of dazzling mechanics as the Ferrari Daytona SP3 that sold for $26 million at the epic sales event and has therefore been blessed with the coveted Geneva Seal. The chronograph features a 45 mm skeletonized case in 18-karat pink gold, a striking open-worked dial, and a rim-shaped caseback that all spotlight the intricacies within. The flyback movement is equipped with multiple patented technologies, including a 120-degree rotating minute counter at 3 o’clock, a second braking system, a tilted balance wheel, and a supercar-inspired rotor. The caseback is shaped like the rims of a car wheel and glimpses the RD780 caliber. Only 88 of these timepieces will be made as a nod to the lucky number of Dubuis himself, with each one retailing for $135,000.
H. Moser & Cie. x Azuki Pioneer Tourbillons
H. Moser & Cie. jumped on the Azuki bandwagon in August, dropping eight watches with the popular anime brand. The collection includes four Pioneer Tourbillons ($75,000) and four Pioneer Centre Seconds ($25,000) inspired by Azuki’s Elementals universe. Each model represents one of the elemental domains: Fire, Earth, Water, or Lightning. The dials are decorated with custom guilloché patterns that reflect the different elemental textures. Think waves for water or flames for fire. “We’re always looking to push creative boundaries in ways that still reflect who we are as a brand,” said H. Moser & Cie. co-owner Bertrand Meylan. “Collaborating with Azuki is a chance to explore a way of storytelling that speaks to a generation that values individuality, creativity, and culture.” Each reference is limited to 24 pieces and available via the 1916 Company.
Panerai Submersible Marinas
Panerai dove a little deeper into its century-long relationship with the Italian Navy in August, unveiling two new dive watches inspired by its aviation branch. The Submersible Marina Militare (PAM01697) and the Submersible Marina CarbotechTM (PAM01698) both take design cues from the flight gear and helmets of the Aviazione Navale, showcasing matching matte green dials with a black gradient finish. Both 44 mm models also feature the Marina Militare signature at 6 o’clock, the Aviazione Navale logo on the caseback, gray Super-LumiNova accents inspired by naval aircraft, and small-seconds counters that resemble a radar display. The PAM01697 is crafted from brushed steel, while the slightly thicker PAM01698 is made from Panerai’s patented Carbotech composite. Both are powered by the automatic P.900 caliber and come with green canvas and black rubber straps. The PAM01697 retails for $12,500, while the PAM01698 is priced at $19,500.
Jacob & Co. Epic X Chrono Tri-Compax Brown
Jacob & Co. has shown brown doesn’t have to be boring, releasing the highly complex Epic X Chrono Tri-Compax in a deep chocolate hue this month. To recap, the Tri-Compax is a high-function version of the Epic X Chrono. It has a smaller 44 mm case than the 47 mm original, but houses more complex parts. Namely, a self-winding chronograph movement (Caliber JCAA12) with three registers framed by scale rings. The brown ceramic case is accented with 18-karat rose-gold, as is the brown dial. No price is listed, but expect to pay in the five figures.
Breitling NFL Team Watches
Ten-hut! Breitling became the NFL’s first luxury watch partner this month, launching not one but two collections of team watches to mark the occasion. One line is based on the Chronomat Automatic GMT, with each version of the pilot’s watch priced at $6,000. The other range is built on the Endurance Pro, with the riffs on the titanium dive watch costing $4,400 apiece. There are 32 different versions of both team-edition models, with each featuring the colors and logos of one of the league’s franchises.
Authors
Rachel Cormack
Digital Editor
Rachel Cormack is a digital editor at Robb Report. She cut her teeth writing for HuffPost, Concrete Playground, and several other online publications in Australia, before moving to New York at the…
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- Vacheron Constantin
- Zenith
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